Two years have passed since Hurricane Katrina smashed into New Orleans. And if you hang out downtown and don't look too closely, you might think that everything is back to normal. The French Quarter, home to the city's famous jazz clubs and eateries, is thick with tourists, and the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, the shelter of last resort for thousands of hot, hungry and hopeless hurricane survivors, again plays host to groups like the American Association of Law Libraries and the International Council of Shopping Centers. But to the east, off Interstate 90, in the city's hardest-hit neighborhoods, the landscape is still post-apocalyptic. On major arteries, practically everything is boarded up: shopping centers, supermarkets, Walgreens, Wendy's, even gas stations.